Start with the basics...
The Gothic period in Western Europe featured clothing that had evolved to carefully fit the body. Men's leg coverings and women's gowns were notable in the type of fit, which if course was better as the wearer's status increased. Women's gowns in particular no longer covered the body, but they now formed the torso, and were designed to display the female form to it's best advantage.
As such, constructing Gothic clothing is not for the novice seamster. Certainly, the big pattern companies sell patterns that are kind-of Gothic, but they depend upon modern fitting methods to achive the look. Likewise, some of the costume books intended for use by the theatre use modern fitting methods, and many accomplished costumers will depend upon what they know to draft custom patterns. In all cases the effect is inferior to the period fitting methods, and so the seamster intent upon doing it "right" will have to learn a new skillset in order to achieve an effect that is visually similar to those in the period illuminations.
Besides reading up on the current thought regarding construction, I highly reccomend that the seamster get a copy of Crowfoot's Textiles and Clothing and the companion Egan and Pritchard's Dress Accessories. Another useful resource is Thursfeld's Medieval Tailor's Assistant, although there are some inconsistancies which the researcher should be aware of.
Consider that using the natural fibers used in period for reproduction clothing isn't being snobbish or extravagent; they simply work better. Linen is the fiber of choice for self-supporting bodices, and wool is the original high performance fabric. The cost can be mitigated by careful shopping. Check out the Links page for some on-line sources. Taking a more period view of wardrobe construction will also help; concentrate on assembling one good, complete versatile ensemble rather than a closet-full of a variety of places and times. The cost will be about the same, and remember that no one in the middle ages cared one whit whether you wore the blue kirtle yesterday or not.
A consistant presentation is important. Wearing a gothic fitted dress with a sixteenth-century headdress completely destroys the illusion of a figure that has stepped out of Tres Riche Heures. Pay attention to the colors of clothing, and what types of accessories were worn. "Cookies" - award medallions - are inconsistant with the period look, as are an abundance of things debending from one's belt. This "Christmas tree" look is frowned upon by the living history community.
A complete presentation is important, too. Almost everyone wore headwear of some sort; thus I don't consider it to be optional. Footwear, too. Yes, I know that you'll spend as much on a pair of period shoes as on a pair for work, or jogging, or hiking. But consider how often you'll wear your period shoes - on the weekends - and think about how long you'll really get good use out of them. And yes, to our modern eyes, baggy hosen look - well - baggy, but a fifteenth-century person probably wouldn't look twice at them.
Woman's Gothic WardrobeThe basic garmentsThe following links will take you to construction details and dress diaries of building the basic garments that a Gothic woman would wear. Until I have time and motivation to journal my own work, I'll link you to some sites that I think have great information. Kirtle / Cotte / Gothic Fitted Dress Discussion - Robin Netherton's writings Discussion - the layered garments Shift Swiss-style layered coif "Turban" coif Some other garmentsGown
Hennin |
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Man's Gothic WardrobeThe basic garmentsThe following links will take you to construction details and dress diaries of building the basic garments that a Gothic man would wear. Until I have time and motivation to journal my own work, I'll link you to some sites that I think have great information. Tunic (early) Jacquette / Cotte Chauses and Braes Coif Hood or chaperone Some other garmentsGown (Houppelande) |