Start with the basics...
The long saga of the gothic fitted dress.Linen and wool. That's all. Nothing else will fit and support properly. Using worsted wool will cut down on the itchy factor. I recommend using linen as the supportive layer in the bodice, and then wool for the fashion layer. Less correct but acceptable is to use linen as the fashion layer; i do often do this as a solution to the extreme summer heat in the US.
An early attemptThis is actually my second attempt at the GFD; the first of green cotton flannel was re-made into a jacquette for my young son. This blue kirtle is linen and cotton blend. I didn't have the fitting down, and so it offers me little to no support. I also made it too short, and later added a hemline of red linen. I love the sleeves and still wear them. I was especially pleased with the wrapped headdress in the Swiss style. The belt is incorrect and has since found it's way to the loaner-clothing bin. |
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My next attemptThe fabrics are a deep purple linen form fabrics-store.com, and a red linen for the lining. I did get a much better fit with this attempt, but made a huge error - I did not finish all my interior seams. The kirtle unravelled from the inside. I am currently trying to fix my mistake - I have had to piece in parts here and there with leftovers. |
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Piecing in the lower cornersI ordered 8 yards of the purple fabric and used just over 4 yards for the kirtle by peicing the lower corners of the skirt. The remainder is becoming a jacquette for Robert. Period paractice demonstrates a reliance on peicing to achieve fullness, and I find it a matter of economy as well. |
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Making upThe lining is pinned to the right side of the bodice section. I stitch the neckline to each quarter first and turn it, and then stitch the quarters together. |
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| The neckline stitched and clipped; preparing to turn and press. |  |